capsule show: Folk

Folk was by far my favorite of the Capsule Show. Founded in 2001 by Cathal McAteer, Folk has made a name for itself with quality, understated, casual menswear. Based in the U.K., I didn't really know much about the company other than they were attending the show. Needless to say I was blown away. In a sea of workwear inspired labels, Folk stood out with simple, classic pieces. Amazing attention is paid to even the smallest detail.

Every season a signature pattern is worked into almost every garment. It shows up in the chunky knit sweaters to the lining of shirts and jackets. The key to Folk's success is in not overdoing the little details and touches.

This quilted jacket was my favorite of Folk's offerings and of the show overall. The material is a soft cotton that has been waterproofed. Inspired by old life jackets, the zipper has a rescue whistle attached. Folk mixes a sense of humor with quality construction and materials-something very difficult to pull off without the garments becoming costumey or cliched.

I will have this jacket. Another detail I loved (besides the color and the quilting) were these shoulder handles. Handles on the shoulder you ask?

The handles are so your buddy can pull you out of the water. If there's one jacket I buy in the next few months, seriously, it'll probably be this one. Too bad I have to wait so long for it to come to shops.

I love the palette of this collection. The staples remain classic colors, while the details and some of the sweaters stand out in bright relief. I would wear every piece shown in this section of the lookbook. I love their shirts. From a little twist on the plackets to contrast lining which gets shown when the sleeves are rolled up, the details really set the shirts a part.

Finding a clothing label that doesn't take itself too seriously while remaining meticulous about construction and fit is a hard thing to do. Folk's probably my new favorite label. How can you not like a label that uses playmobil toys in their lookbook?

Can't wait till I open my own store to buy some Folk gear? Check out oi polloi and oki-ni. Or check out the Folk shop when you're in London.

Folk
49 Lambs Conduit St,
London, WC1N 3NG
0207 404 6458
shop@folkclothing.com

capsule show: Billykirk

I've been admiring the work of the brothers Bray from afar for quite some time now. Hand made leather goods in large part produced by Amish craftsmen in Pennsylvania, Billykirk bags and wallets look amazing. Being able to feel the leather and the stitching made me want something even more.

Being primarily a leathermaking outfit, I was nicely surprised when I spied these duffels at their booth.

Heavy duty waxed canvas and strong, sturdy zippers make these duffels a must have for when you need to disappear for a few days.

My favorite was this olive green. Like all of their products, these bags will only get cooler and better looking with age and abuse. Throw it in the back of your car and let your girl borrow it.

The perfect size for the gym as well as the overhead compartment. Get this and never buy another duffel again.

Billykirk teamed up with sebago to make some pretty cool shoes and boots.

These hats are classic shapes and made with classic materials. Great for that impromptu picnic that you're planning for her.

A few jerky guys have almost single handedly ruined wearing dapper pieces like these. Let's reclaim the classic hat from all those guys.

I saved my all-time favorites for last. I love the zipper wallets. I'd get the natural leather and watch how cool it got just from holding my money and staying in my pocket.

Not one of those guys who really rocks a wallet? Get the cardholder and you'll be set for life.

Billykirk makes products that you hold on to for a long time. Girls, these are things any guy will appreciate. Also, whenever I meet a girl with a cool wallet or bag (or hat) I always remember her. It's like the girl with a really cool car.

make sure to check out Billykirk's site for way more product shots. For those of you who love studio/workspace shots check out Selectism's visit to their studio.

capsule show: Garbstore

Garbstore has a great reputation and whenever a new line drops, it's bound to get a ton of press. As a label, Garbstore treads that fine line between vintage-inspired and reproduction. The materials, color ways, and construction all hint at the influence, yet the pieces remain modern and relevant.

The jackets and trousers stood out as very durable options that would work well as three season gear. A lot of times labels that reference traditional garb often retain the original fitting, which is often boxier and baggier than average. The fit of the jackets and trousers are spot-on.

This was one of my favorites of the showings for spring/summer '10. The shawl collar is something I've really been liking lately. I'm happy to see a few looks incorporating the traditional collar. I also like that this cardigan is made of a heavy sweatshirt cotton. Perfect for the chilly night or as a layering piece.

Garbstore makes amazing jackets and waistcoats. I really like the shape and color of this one. The slight contrast on the underside of the collar is a nice subtle touch. These jackets feel great. The seams and buttons feel strong and the pocket placement is perfect.

This back cinch is a nice touch. It's small touches like these that kept me discovering new details throughout the show. The guys at Garbstore are picky about where their garments are carried. Which often translates to a little frustration in locating them. But if you can find it, it's great gear that will last you a long time.

For more pics and thoughts check out ryan's review, see what the guys from streetetiquette wore and saw, and to round it out; drinkin&dronin's thoughts.

capsule show: Yuketen

this pic courtesy of streetetiquette

The Yuketen company wasn't really a surprise in terms of quality or presentation. All the gear is hand made in the U.S.A. and looks great. From moccasins, to boat shoes, to backpacks, the boys at Yuketen have got you covered. Now if they could just get some U.S. buyers to pick up more than just one or two styles. From the booth itself, it seems as if the boat shoe will be around for a few more seasons to come. And really, if you're gonna get some, why not a hand made pair?

It's no secret here that I love all things moccasin and crepe sole. So when I spotted these guys underneath the main table, I had to take a second look.

The Yuketen guys (who were really nice and more than willing to let me chat their ears off) told me these were the first model ever made at Yuketen.

I love the over sized sole and overall roughness of the shoe. They are lightweight while still feeling solid as hell. I could see myself wearing these until they completely disintegrated on my feet.

For me, these are the perfect compromise between a boat shoe and moccasin. I heard Steven Alan was looking at them, but no one could confirm whether or not they'll actually be available here in the U.S.. So if you see a pair, cop me an eleven and I'll be your best friend.

Your thoughts? Too goofy looking? Too much crepe sole?

capsule show, an introduction

The Capsule show was amazing. Partly because it was an opportunity to see clothes that I've only seen on my computer screen. Mostly because the show served as a catalyst for a lot of great people to congregate in the Lower East Side of New York for four great days. Hard working, creative, generous, and kind to a fault; these guys and girls served as a great source of inspiration and energy for yours truly. A great big hello and nice to meet you (and thank you) goes out to Ryan(youhavebrokentheinternet), Max(allplaidout), Jake Davis, Sonia(snoozerloser), James(secretforts), Emil(thehill-side), Chris(folk), Raan(apolisactivism), Rogues Gallery, 3Sixteen, ContextClothing, BillyKirk, SwipeLife, and so, so many more.

Rather than put all the photos I took and my impressions in one huge post, I figured I'd start with my overall impression and then do posts on individual brands over the next few days.

Initially, I was overwhelmed when I walked through the doors. The venue (a once condemned church) was amazing and added a lot of character. The music was a tad too loud, especially since the ostensible purpose was to conduct business and allow designers and reps to talk about their labels. Other than that, the organizers did a great job-free water, booze, and the now ubiquitous energy drink were plentiful and kept everyone in fairly good moods.

Quick impressions: The workwear thing, it definitely is here to stay. Almost every company had at least a chambray shirt or hickory striped something. Best in show goes to Folk.

The opportunity to see these clothes up close really highlighted the quality and care that goes into their design and construction. I feel far more comfortable posting about and recommending them. The fact that the people behind these brands are so warm and inviting makes me even more willing to give them my money.

Stay tuned for spotlights on Folk, Billy Kirk, and my other favorites of the show.

photo safari

I'm back from my foray into the Big Apple. The show was great but really, all the people I got to meet were the best part. This is just a quick post to show you some of what I saw while I was there. Stay tuned for the Capsule review as well as a few more treats.

stuff to do

Anyone else going to the (capsule) show in New York? I'm thinking about going and it would be fun to put some faces to blogs and comments. The brand list looks pretty good. Personally I'm looking forward to checking out Garbstore, Post O'eralls, BillyKirk, Our Legacy, and Penfield. Whew. Talk about lions, and tigers, and bears.

Capsule seems to me the most user friendly tradeshow. All you have to do to get in is register online. So if you're thinking about checking out the show or will be in NYC around that time, drop me a line. We can silently check each other's clothes out over coffee or overpriced menswear.